The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous road noise. Daily travelers rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.

This is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established grape-growing plot. However one local grower has managed to 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a rambling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just above Bristol town centre.

"I've seen people concealing heroin or other items in those bushes," states Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines."

The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from four hidden city grape gardens tucked away in back gardens and community plots across Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

Urban Vineyards Around the World

To date, the grower's plot is the only one listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and within the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the vanguard of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, Bangladesh and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help urban areas stay greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units inside urban environments," explains the association's president.

Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the fruit. "Each vintage embodies the charm, local spirit, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Grapes

Back in the city, the grower is in a race against time to harvest the vines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the rain comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to attack once more. "This is the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and rotten berries from the glistering clusters. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned French grapes – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was bred by the Eastern Bloc."

Collective Activities Throughout the City

Additional participants of the group are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace with views of Bristol's glistening waterfront, where historic trading ships once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from about fifty plants. "I adore the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, stopping with a container of fruit resting on her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."

Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, unexpectedly inherited the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from the soil."

Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production

A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty vines situated on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they are viewing grapevine lines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from rows of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, Luca. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that hobbyists can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the growing number of establishments specialising in low-processing wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, natural wine," she states. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's reviving an traditional method of making wine."

"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the wild yeasts are released from the surfaces into the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a container of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers introduce preservatives to kill the wild yeast and then incorporate a lab-grown culture."

Challenging Environments and Creative Solutions

In the immediate vicinity active senior another cultivator, who inspired his neighbor to plant her grapevines, has gathered his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on regular visits to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the humidity of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits the retiree with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is a bit bonkers"

The temperamental Bristol climate is not the sole problem faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has been compelled to erect a barrier on

Gabriel Yoder
Gabriel Yoder

Elara is an avid hiker and nature writer, sharing her experiences from trails around the world to inspire outdoor enthusiasts.